StMU Research Scholars

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October 12, 2017

Coco Chanel’s “Little Black Dress”

Growing up, this woman had been abandoned by her father, leaving her and her siblings to become orphans. Although she grew up very poor, she strove to make a name for herself and be somebody important in the world, and she has since become famous for her fragrances, signature handbags, and the modern breakthrough in women’s fashion associated with her, revolutionizing the world of fashion one piece of clothing at a time. She was the French fashion designer Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. Being filled with the “desire for independence and need to be different,” Chanel freed women from tight corsets and introduced them to new comfortable loose clothing.1

During the 1920’s, Chanel had become one of the most powerful designers, creating a variety of fashionable clothing worn by women, and even influencing the “flappers.”2 Prior to her “revolution in fashion,” the fashion industry had been ruled by men, and clothes were made from a male’s viewpoint for how women should dress. But she introduced an entirely different concept of women’s fashion to the world. In the years before 1919, fitted vibrant colored clothing was the signature look, where black or dark clothing were only worn at funerals and at times of mourning. She even began attending many high social functions wearing pants, making something that was never done before a new trend in women’s fashion.3 Her style was one of a kind. She designed her clothing from her own viewpoint, as a woman, wearing what she saw as most comfortable.

Her creations instantaneously became the uniform of the modern women. It all started with the explosion of a gas burner while getting ready for an event in 1926. She found herself troubled trying to get the water temperate enough to wash her face. Wearing a simple white dress, she tried to alter the gas flame when it exploded surprisingly. Her white dress was now fully coated with soot. The explosion resulted in the creation of the legendary “Little Black Dress.”4 The original little black dress was plain and simple. It was a long-sleeved black fitted, but also comfortable creped, dress.5 It was a tragedy that led to the innovation of a lifetime. Chanel had created the perfect dress, suitable for any occasion, elegant or casual. “It defined the essence of modern, liberated women and reflected a change.”6

Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel wearing the famous “Little Black Dress” | Courtesy of Flickr

When the famous actress Audrey Hepburn wore the dress in 1961, it brought more attraction to the style and simplicity of the Little Black Dress. It became more idolized and desired. The fame of the little black dress increased due to its exposure in Hepburn’s iconic movie, Breakfast at Tiffany’s. She portrayed a character named Holly Golightly.7 Chanel’s fashion was frequently displayed among the high social class. She dressed many famous individuals such as Elizabeth Taylor, Marilyn Monroe, Princess Diana, Madonna, and Jackie Kennedy.8

Through the years, the Little Black Dress became knows as the LBD.  It came to be a necessity in every woman’s attire. It could be used for any type of occasion. Generations after generations, the dress has changed drastically. The LBD went from a fitted design to a more fashionable cocktail dress for special events. The LBD has become a trademark, displaying the transformation of fashion and dress since at least the late 1920’s. We are now in the twenty-first century; the little black dress remains a mainstay of the clothing industry and a must in the wardrobe of every woman. Even after four decades after her death, Chanel remains an icon. She played a very important role in the revolution of women’s fashion. Thanks to Chanel’s bold attitude and braveness, she broke the “rules” and transformed fashion.

  1. Encyclopedia of World Biography, 2004, s.v. “Coco Chanel.”
  2. St. James Encyclopedia of Popular Culture, April 2013, s.v. “Chanel, Coco,” by Richard Martin.
  3. Encyclopedia of World Biography, 2004, s.v. “Coco Chanel.”
  4. Isabella Alston and Kathryn Dixon, Coco Chanel (United States: Bellagio Press, 2014), 34.
  5. Isabelle Fiemeyer, “Chanel the Enigma,” France Today Vol.32, No. 1 (2016): 83.
  6. Deborah Felder, The 100 most influential women of all time: a ranking past and present (New Jersey: Citadel, 1996), 175.
  7. Nancy Wingston, “It starts with a little black dress,” Toronto Star (2016).
  8. Isabella Alston and Kathryn Dixon, Coco Chanel (United States: Bellagio Press, 2014), 90.

Tags from the story

Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel

Little Black Dress

Recent Comments

Belia Camarena

Coco Channel is one of the most famous fashion icons, and she is known for transforming the fashion industry. She was bold and daring to enter a male dominated field. Women everywhere owe her a special thanks because she transformed fashion in women’s favor by keeping comfort as her first priority. I also thought it was interesting that the LBD was created by accident.

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21/01/2018

8:24 am

Carlos Vazquez

Chanel is one of those elegant brands I always heard of but never really knew much about. It’s amazing to see how Coco was able to change the fashion industry and create an empire because of an accident. This article is very well written and informative, I had no idea the dress in “breakfast at Tiffany’s” was Chanel’s little black dress and that it had such a powerful history.

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21/01/2018

8:24 am

Jasmine Jaramillo

When I was reading this article I was happy to read that Coco Chanel took a risk and stepped into fashion. She faced an industry that was runned by men and was able to make a name for herself. Now she is one of the most successful fashion designers in the world. Before reading this article I did not know anything about Chanel. It’s cool to read about how she made a name for herself when she didn’t have a name to begin with, being an orphan and all. Chanel seems to be a person someone can look to for inspiration to pursue their dreams.

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21/01/2018

8:24 am

Alexander Cruz

I always love reading about how incredible women, such as Chanel, overcame the ‘norms’ that were placed on them during this time. To go against the crowd and stand out to do something nobody else has the guts to do out of fear is incredible. Reading this article and about what she did really inspires me, even as a man, to get out there and fight for change. -AC

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21/01/2018

8:24 am

Regina De La Parra

Coco Chanel is an inspiration for women everywhere and she is a sign power. I have always loved the brand, but I had never stopped to think that was today is seen everywhere was once new and maybe even non very well accepted. I like the tone of the article and the way this era is described. I am glad that I have read this article because it is an inspiration and a reminder that we can do anything. I love the part of the gas explosion!

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21/01/2018

8:24 am

Constancia Tijerina

One of my secret obsessions are fashion and of course this article has intrigued me most. I have never heard of Coco Chanel before I had read this article. I guess you can say this was the start of something bigger and better towards the future world of fashion. I love how this article captures the independence of a person and how their hardship has granted this person with outrageous success and new outbreaks in the fashion world. Inspiring many more fashion designers down the road, she was the pure example of commitment and success.

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21/01/2018

8:24 am

Thomas Fraire

Coco Channels little black dress is an iconic look that is still very prevalent in today’s culture. I had no Idea of the origins of it though. I enjoyed this article a lot, and it was really well written. I definitely learned something in this article I wouldn’t have gone out of the way to learn on my own.

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22/01/2018

8:24 am

Natalia Flores

I will admit I am not a huge fan of fashion, but this article really got my attention. I never knew Coco Chanel grew up as an orphan and had nothing. I had always thought of her as a high class woman from a high class family that made clothes and fashion, but this article changed that. It’s amazing that she broke societal rules for women’s clothing and helped start the flapper movement back in the 1919’s and 20’s. It’s blew my mind that she created this iconic dress by pure coincident from a gas explosion of all things!

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23/01/2018

8:24 am

Kimberly Simmons

Coco Chanel created a name for herself beyond what anyone would have ever expected. The fashion industry was in deep need of a woman’s true touch – females no longer had to live in the shadow of how people thought they should look. The story of the infamous “little black dress” is so simple, yet at the time, was revolutionary. Her iconic image is one that is of high quality even to this day.

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25/01/2018

8:24 am

Alexandra Lopez

To read about what Coco Chanel had to go through was incredibly new to me. I had only ever know the brand name and not the creator behind it. Her story of independence and defiance is an inspiration to the female population. Knowing that this gorgeous “little black dress” was once new and disapproved makes me enjoy the look even more. Because of her brave tendencies, the fashion industry is filled with more women than ever before. Her hardships granted her success and fame everywhere. Truly a revolutionary.

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26/01/2018

8:24 am

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