StMU Research Scholars

Featuring Scholarly Research, Writing, and Media at St. Mary’s University

October 12, 2017

Coco Chanel’s “Little Black Dress”

Growing up, this woman had been abandoned by her father, leaving her and her siblings to become orphans. Although she grew up very poor, she strove to make a name for herself and be somebody important in the world, and she has since become famous for her fragrances, signature handbags, and the modern breakthrough in women’s fashion associated with her, revolutionizing the world of fashion one piece of clothing at a time. She was the French fashion designer Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. Being filled with the “desire for independence and need to be different,” Chanel freed women from tight corsets and introduced them to new comfortable loose clothing.1

During the 1920’s, Chanel had become one of the most powerful designers, creating a variety of fashionable clothing worn by women, and even influencing the “flappers.”2 Prior to her “revolution in fashion,” the fashion industry had been ruled by men, and clothes were made from a male’s viewpoint for how women should dress. But she introduced an entirely different concept of women’s fashion to the world. In the years before 1919, fitted vibrant colored clothing was the signature look, where black or dark clothing were only worn at funerals and at times of mourning. She even began attending many high social functions wearing pants, making something that was never done before a new trend in women’s fashion.3 Her style was one of a kind. She designed her clothing from her own viewpoint, as a woman, wearing what she saw as most comfortable.

Her creations instantaneously became the uniform of the modern women. It all started with the explosion of a gas burner while getting ready for an event in 1926. She found herself troubled trying to get the water temperate enough to wash her face. Wearing a simple white dress, she tried to alter the gas flame when it exploded surprisingly. Her white dress was now fully coated with soot. The explosion resulted in the creation of the legendary “Little Black Dress.”4 The original little black dress was plain and simple. It was a long-sleeved black fitted, but also comfortable creped, dress.5 It was a tragedy that led to the innovation of a lifetime. Chanel had created the perfect dress, suitable for any occasion, elegant or casual. “It defined the essence of modern, liberated women and reflected a change.”6

Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel wearing the famous “Little Black Dress” | Courtesy of Flickr

When the famous actress Audrey Hepburn wore the dress in 1961, it brought more attraction to the style and simplicity of the Little Black Dress. It became more idolized and desired. The fame of the little black dress increased due to its exposure in Hepburn’s iconic movie, Breakfast at Tiffany’s. She portrayed a character named Holly Golightly.7 Chanel’s fashion was frequently displayed among the high social class. She dressed many famous individuals such as Elizabeth Taylor, Marilyn Monroe, Princess Diana, Madonna, and Jackie Kennedy.8

Through the years, the Little Black Dress became knows as the LBD.  It came to be a necessity in every woman’s attire. It could be used for any type of occasion. Generations after generations, the dress has changed drastically. The LBD went from a fitted design to a more fashionable cocktail dress for special events. The LBD has become a trademark, displaying the transformation of fashion and dress since at least the late 1920’s. We are now in the twenty-first century; the little black dress remains a mainstay of the clothing industry and a must in the wardrobe of every woman. Even after four decades after her death, Chanel remains an icon. She played a very important role in the revolution of women’s fashion. Thanks to Chanel’s bold attitude and braveness, she broke the “rules” and transformed fashion.

  1. Encyclopedia of World Biography, 2004, s.v. “Coco Chanel.”
  2. St. James Encyclopedia of Popular Culture, April 2013, s.v. “Chanel, Coco,” by Richard Martin.
  3. Encyclopedia of World Biography, 2004, s.v. “Coco Chanel.”
  4. Isabella Alston and Kathryn Dixon, Coco Chanel (United States: Bellagio Press, 2014), 34.
  5. Isabelle Fiemeyer, “Chanel the Enigma,” France Today Vol.32, No. 1 (2016): 83.
  6. Deborah Felder, The 100 most influential women of all time: a ranking past and present (New Jersey: Citadel, 1996), 175.
  7. Nancy Wingston, “It starts with a little black dress,” Toronto Star (2016).
  8. Isabella Alston and Kathryn Dixon, Coco Chanel (United States: Bellagio Press, 2014), 90.

Tags from the story

Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel

Little Black Dress

Recent Comments

Sebastian Castro Ramos

Interesting article. The history of fashion is something I am estranged to, so this article gave me lots of new and interesting facts. Now that I think about, it makes sense that in the past women’s fashion was dominated by men, just as many other aspects of everyday life. However, how good it is that this woman managed to revolutionize fashion and paved a road to many other women to come that gave important inputs to this industry, and inspired many others in many aspects of life to end the inequality between genders that existed in the past.

reply

13/10/2017

8:24 am

Cherice Leach

What a great article! I was intrigued the entire time I was reading this. Of course I knew who Coco Chanel was but I had no idea of the history behind her fashion line. She is a fashion role model who changed fashion tremendously. I also had no clue that she’s the person to thank for all my LBDs in my closet! How revolutionary for women in fashion at that time. She is truly a fashion designer to remember and not just for all the great fashion styles she has influenced but for the remarkable effort she put into becoming one of the first female fashion designers.

reply

13/10/2017

8:24 am

Lisa Varela

I remember being young seeing Audrey Hepburn dressed in the iconic “Little Black Dress” and thinking how elegant she looked. Every girl is bound to hear the name Coco Chanel at some point in their lives, for me it came at a young age. I remember hearing “Coco Chanel” because my mom liked her perfume. However, hearing the name is one thing and knowing her life is another. I did not know the story behind the famous Coco Channel until this article. Great work!

reply

13/10/2017

8:24 am

Jesica Rivera

It is amazing to see that a woman from such humble beginnings became an icon through her designs and creations. Although I am pretty sure her name is easily recognized because of her brand, I do not think many know of her origin and the journey she made to get where her brand is now. This article did a good job in painting Coco Chanel’s contribution to women and the fashion industry. She paved a road with liberating fashion that is still relevant now.

reply

13/10/2017

8:24 am

Marco Picardo

Loved it from the beginning to the end. The tone was set well from the introduction. I always knew the brand, but never knew the woman behind it. It’s interesting how she grew up poor and an orphan. Her story was a real rags to riches fairy tale. Furthermore, I never knew the story behind the “little black dress”. It’s funny to read that it was in fact an accident.

reply

13/10/2017

8:24 am

Carlos Aparicio

I really enjoyed the introduction talking about her tough childhood and then leading up to her successful company. I was extremely impressed with how Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel made a name for herself in the fashion world because it wasn’t very common for women to have any power at all and to have a voice. She was a symbol for all women in the 1920’s, which started a fashion revolution for all women who desired comfortable clothes. This article was well written on her biography.

reply

13/10/2017

8:24 am

Dayna Valdez

Despite where she came from, she became very well known, which was a goal she wanted to achieve. I think it is very interesting that men basically controlled how women dressed and in a sense of way, she was able to help change that. It’s amazing how a simple creation of a a flame gas explosion took her even farther.

reply

13/10/2017

8:24 am

Alejandra Mendez

I knew who “Coco” Chanel was because of her name and very famous brand, but I did not know of her or anything about her for that matter. I didn’t even know her real first name or that she was French. The story of the soot covered white dress being the start of the little black dress is a funny and special one to me. I never would have imagined that that unfortunate situation she found herself in was the inspiration for her idea of the little black dress. This just goes to show that the best things can sometimes come from unexpected situations.

reply

13/10/2017

8:24 am

Erik Shannon

This is a very interesting and well written article. This is a very inspirational story. She started off very poor and ended up being a very popular brand in women’s clothing. I never really understood how “little black dress” originated until I read this article. She shows us that anything is possible to accomplish. Overall, this is a very informative article.

reply

13/10/2017

8:24 am

Benjamin Voy

A very interesting article that I knew nothing about. Its an amazing how such a disadvantaged child grew up to accomplish so much. I am familiar with Chanel however knew nothing to its background. Without this amazing innovation many females today may have still be plagued with those awful corsets that can be so damaging to young woman. Great article

reply

13/10/2017

8:24 am

1 6 7 8 9

Leave a Reply