StMU Research Scholars

Featuring Scholarly Research, Writing, and Media at St. Mary’s University

October 12, 2017

Coco Chanel’s “Little Black Dress”

Growing up, this woman had been abandoned by her father, leaving her and her siblings to become orphans. Although she grew up very poor, she strove to make a name for herself and be somebody important in the world, and she has since become famous for her fragrances, signature handbags, and the modern breakthrough in women’s fashion associated with her, revolutionizing the world of fashion one piece of clothing at a time. She was the French fashion designer Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. Being filled with the “desire for independence and need to be different,” Chanel freed women from tight corsets and introduced them to new comfortable loose clothing.1

During the 1920’s, Chanel had become one of the most powerful designers, creating a variety of fashionable clothing worn by women, and even influencing the “flappers.”2 Prior to her “revolution in fashion,” the fashion industry had been ruled by men, and clothes were made from a male’s viewpoint for how women should dress. But she introduced an entirely different concept of women’s fashion to the world. In the years before 1919, fitted vibrant colored clothing was the signature look, where black or dark clothing were only worn at funerals and at times of mourning. She even began attending many high social functions wearing pants, making something that was never done before a new trend in women’s fashion.3 Her style was one of a kind. She designed her clothing from her own viewpoint, as a woman, wearing what she saw as most comfortable.

Her creations instantaneously became the uniform of the modern women. It all started with the explosion of a gas burner while getting ready for an event in 1926. She found herself troubled trying to get the water temperate enough to wash her face. Wearing a simple white dress, she tried to alter the gas flame when it exploded surprisingly. Her white dress was now fully coated with soot. The explosion resulted in the creation of the legendary “Little Black Dress.”4 The original little black dress was plain and simple. It was a long-sleeved black fitted, but also comfortable creped, dress.5 It was a tragedy that led to the innovation of a lifetime. Chanel had created the perfect dress, suitable for any occasion, elegant or casual. “It defined the essence of modern, liberated women and reflected a change.”6

Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel wearing the famous “Little Black Dress” | Courtesy of Flickr

When the famous actress Audrey Hepburn wore the dress in 1961, it brought more attraction to the style and simplicity of the Little Black Dress. It became more idolized and desired. The fame of the little black dress increased due to its exposure in Hepburn’s iconic movie, Breakfast at Tiffany’s. She portrayed a character named Holly Golightly.7 Chanel’s fashion was frequently displayed among the high social class. She dressed many famous individuals such as Elizabeth Taylor, Marilyn Monroe, Princess Diana, Madonna, and Jackie Kennedy.8

Through the years, the Little Black Dress became knows as the LBD.  It came to be a necessity in every woman’s attire. It could be used for any type of occasion. Generations after generations, the dress has changed drastically. The LBD went from a fitted design to a more fashionable cocktail dress for special events. The LBD has become a trademark, displaying the transformation of fashion and dress since at least the late 1920’s. We are now in the twenty-first century; the little black dress remains a mainstay of the clothing industry and a must in the wardrobe of every woman. Even after four decades after her death, Chanel remains an icon. She played a very important role in the revolution of women’s fashion. Thanks to Chanel’s bold attitude and braveness, she broke the “rules” and transformed fashion.

  1. Encyclopedia of World Biography, 2004, s.v. “Coco Chanel.”
  2. St. James Encyclopedia of Popular Culture, April 2013, s.v. “Chanel, Coco,” by Richard Martin.
  3. Encyclopedia of World Biography, 2004, s.v. “Coco Chanel.”
  4. Isabella Alston and Kathryn Dixon, Coco Chanel (United States: Bellagio Press, 2014), 34.
  5. Isabelle Fiemeyer, “Chanel the Enigma,” France Today Vol.32, No. 1 (2016): 83.
  6. Deborah Felder, The 100 most influential women of all time: a ranking past and present (New Jersey: Citadel, 1996), 175.
  7. Nancy Wingston, “It starts with a little black dress,” Toronto Star (2016).
  8. Isabella Alston and Kathryn Dixon, Coco Chanel (United States: Bellagio Press, 2014), 90.

Tags from the story

Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel

Little Black Dress

Recent Comments

Hannah Wilson

I did not know the story behind the fame of this brand and the little black dress. The fact that she started with nothing and worked her way all the way up to one of the most successful business owners in the world is impressive. In a world run by men at the time it makes it even more impressive. I like that she made clothes that she knew other women would like and be comfortable in because she did not care what men thought about their fashion.

reply

17/02/2018

8:24 am

Maria Mancha

If you were like me, as a little girl i loved fashion. Especially Coco Channel and the little black dress. Its so interesting to learn that she was actually poor and built her way up. Its the ideal story for every little girl to read and know her dreams can come true. Aubrey Hepburn an icon wore her dress and it grew her from the 1920s to the 1960s. The way you delivered this article was very well, it had a lot of factual evidence as well as it was extremely interesting to read. Coco Channel changed fashion and it was extremely interesting to read.

reply

21/02/2018

8:24 am

Timothy ODekirk

This article was rather interesting to me. I am not normally a fan of fashion and the history of fashion; however, this article did strike my interest. I was unaware of the Little Black Dress prior to reading this article. I am glad that I took the time to read about it now. The history of the LBD was intrigued me. I was also intrigued how it was worn by many women decades after the roaring twenties, keeping the Little Black Dress still up to date. The Little Black Dress is a famous piece of clothing that will forever have an intriguing history behind it.

reply

04/03/2018

8:24 am

Destiny Flores

What a cute little story of serendipity. Who would have known a fashion metamorphosis, would have been born from something as simple as a gas burner. Its funny how that step in fashion happened in the 1920’s, and here were are now in 2018, and still every women has to have a little black dress. It’s a female necessity passed on many generations.

reply

05/03/2018

8:24 am

Daniela Martinez

This article is fresh and informative. It is interesting to learn the history behind the ever so famous and staple piece of clothing which we now know as “Little Black Dress”. The article is written in a fashion in which it highlights the popularity of the “Little Black Dress” as it was designed for women by a woman who understood fashion and the needs to women at the time. It is also interesting to see how this dress has changed over time to meet the fashion standards of the time.

reply

15/08/2018

8:24 am

Marina Castro

It is always very inspiring to read about women who create impact in the lives of more women. How amazing it is to create such a change with art and fashion. Little did Coco Channel know that she would become such an icon and free women with just a dress. Women should always support other women and help with what their best at.

reply

16/08/2018

8:24 am

Eloisa Sanchez Urrea

The story of Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel is one that I find very inspiring. This woman demonstrated that our hardships should not be used as excuses, but as motivation to achieve our goals. She built herself up to be a prestigious designer than broke the barriers of defining how women “should” dress. She revolutionized clothing for women, and even went to create the famous little black dress.

reply

17/08/2018

8:24 am

Daniela Duran

The simplicity of the article, combined with its abundance in detail was impressive! I truly enjoyed reading about such a brave and creative woman. I would have never imagined that a simple accident like the gas incident would be capable of enlightening someone’s creativity just as it did with Coco. This article is the pure evidence of the fact that we can all leave a mark in the world, even if it is though the smallest little change. It is admirable how she was able to derive such a great idea, form a dress covered in soot! I think this should be an invitation to all of us to be creative, and especially brave…going against the flow and challenging gender stereotypes is never easy! what she did will never be forgotten simple because she was brave.

reply

17/08/2018

8:24 am

Ariana Melendez

Prior to reading this article, I had no idea the origins of the infamous LBD. I also lacked knowledge about the brand Chanel’s upbringing. This articles emphasizes how one piece of clothing became not only a fashion statement, but a social statement for women everywhere. It made it clear that women could dress however they seemed fit for whatever occasion, as well as the fact that a woman should dress herself, not be influenced by a man.

reply

19/08/2018

8:24 am

Mariana Gonzalez

Before reading this article I had no idea about the story behind the LBD, which I enjoyed reading because I was so shocked at the story behind such trendy apparel. I really enjoy seeing people use their hardships to become such a great person. I am not surprised that in the fashion industry it was men who designed women clothing and that they used their position to marginalize their style. We needed a woman like Gabrielle Coco Channel to stand up for us and create designs that made women feel confident and beautiful, such as the beautiful and iconic little black dress.

reply

19/08/2018

8:24 am

1 2 3 4 5 6 9

Leave a Reply