StMU Research Scholars

Featuring Scholarly Research, Writing, and Media at St. Mary’s University

October 12, 2017

Coco Chanel’s “Little Black Dress”

Growing up, this woman had been abandoned by her father, leaving her and her siblings to become orphans. Although she grew up very poor, she strove to make a name for herself and be somebody important in the world, and she has since become famous for her fragrances, signature handbags, and the modern breakthrough in women’s fashion associated with her, revolutionizing the world of fashion one piece of clothing at a time. She was the French fashion designer Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. Being filled with the “desire for independence and need to be different,” Chanel freed women from tight corsets and introduced them to new comfortable loose clothing.1

During the 1920’s, Chanel had become one of the most powerful designers, creating a variety of fashionable clothing worn by women, and even influencing the “flappers.”2 Prior to her “revolution in fashion,” the fashion industry had been ruled by men, and clothes were made from a male’s viewpoint for how women should dress. But she introduced an entirely different concept of women’s fashion to the world. In the years before 1919, fitted vibrant colored clothing was the signature look, where black or dark clothing were only worn at funerals and at times of mourning. She even began attending many high social functions wearing pants, making something that was never done before a new trend in women’s fashion.3 Her style was one of a kind. She designed her clothing from her own viewpoint, as a woman, wearing what she saw as most comfortable.

Her creations instantaneously became the uniform of the modern women. It all started with the explosion of a gas burner while getting ready for an event in 1926. She found herself troubled trying to get the water temperate enough to wash her face. Wearing a simple white dress, she tried to alter the gas flame when it exploded surprisingly. Her white dress was now fully coated with soot. The explosion resulted in the creation of the legendary “Little Black Dress.”4 The original little black dress was plain and simple. It was a long-sleeved black fitted, but also comfortable creped, dress.5 It was a tragedy that led to the innovation of a lifetime. Chanel had created the perfect dress, suitable for any occasion, elegant or casual. “It defined the essence of modern, liberated women and reflected a change.”6

Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel wearing the famous “Little Black Dress” | Courtesy of Flickr

When the famous actress Audrey Hepburn wore the dress in 1961, it brought more attraction to the style and simplicity of the Little Black Dress. It became more idolized and desired. The fame of the little black dress increased due to its exposure in Hepburn’s iconic movie, Breakfast at Tiffany’s. She portrayed a character named Holly Golightly.7 Chanel’s fashion was frequently displayed among the high social class. She dressed many famous individuals such as Elizabeth Taylor, Marilyn Monroe, Princess Diana, Madonna, and Jackie Kennedy.8

Through the years, the Little Black Dress became knows as the LBD.  It came to be a necessity in every woman’s attire. It could be used for any type of occasion. Generations after generations, the dress has changed drastically. The LBD went from a fitted design to a more fashionable cocktail dress for special events. The LBD has become a trademark, displaying the transformation of fashion and dress since at least the late 1920’s. We are now in the twenty-first century; the little black dress remains a mainstay of the clothing industry and a must in the wardrobe of every woman. Even after four decades after her death, Chanel remains an icon. She played a very important role in the revolution of women’s fashion. Thanks to Chanel’s bold attitude and braveness, she broke the “rules” and transformed fashion.

  1. Encyclopedia of World Biography, 2004, s.v. “Coco Chanel.”
  2. St. James Encyclopedia of Popular Culture, April 2013, s.v. “Chanel, Coco,” by Richard Martin.
  3. Encyclopedia of World Biography, 2004, s.v. “Coco Chanel.”
  4. Isabella Alston and Kathryn Dixon, Coco Chanel (United States: Bellagio Press, 2014), 34.
  5. Isabelle Fiemeyer, “Chanel the Enigma,” France Today Vol.32, No. 1 (2016): 83.
  6. Deborah Felder, The 100 most influential women of all time: a ranking past and present (New Jersey: Citadel, 1996), 175.
  7. Nancy Wingston, “It starts with a little black dress,” Toronto Star (2016).
  8. Isabella Alston and Kathryn Dixon, Coco Chanel (United States: Bellagio Press, 2014), 90.

Tags from the story

Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel

Little Black Dress

Recent Comments

Angela Rodriguez

While walking in the malls, we come across the brand Chanel. Personally, never knew much about her but while reading this article I was quite inspired with the way she was able to break the norms of women’s fashion. Hopefully people in the future will continue to remember this legend who started from nothing and became a fashion icon from her little black dress. Which to this day, continues to be a fashion icon.

reply

19/11/2017

8:24 am

Sebastian Castro Ramos

This article provides the story of a woman who set an example and started a revolution on women’s fashion, just as in any other aspect of life. She truly is an important figure in history. How curious, however, that the little black dress was the result of an example, just an accident. Sometimes some impressive works of art or science are spontaneous, but never as this one. And yet, it managed to become an essential part of a woman’s wardrobe.

reply

19/11/2017

8:24 am

Samman Tyata

Great job! I really loved reading your article. It was really interesting to read that Chanel introduced loose clothing that was comfortable and freed women from tight corsets. Moreover, it is really inspiring she broke the rules and transformed fashion by designed her clothing from her own viewpoint in a male dominated fashion world. To sum it up, it was a great read.

reply

19/11/2017

8:24 am

Alejandra Mendez

My mom and I were just talking about Coco Chanel today! It’s amazing how someone can be so successful so fast and make a mark for a lifetime in the fashion industry. It is also somewhat humorous and amazing at the same time how a simple accident could become such a big hit. There are many important inventions that start off this way and it just goes to show that even accidents turn into great ideas in the fashion industry.

reply

19/11/2017

8:24 am

Alejandra Chavez

I had always wondered where the shift where women would be wearing corsets that barely allowed them to breathe turned to women always being known to wear black had originated. Although the change was initially described as being degrading towards women, I am glad I am no longer obligated to society and I can take a breath when it comes to fashion (literally). Very good article.

reply

19/11/2017

8:24 am

Matthew Rios

A well written article! I had never knew of Chanel’s story, or how the brand came to be before reading this. I never had much of an interest in the people of fashion, but I suppose this case could be considered important. Women really had it rough, so any sort of social advancement was ultimately a good thing for them. Even something as simple as clothing carried a burden on women. For the most part, it’s not really the case anymore luckily!

reply

19/11/2017

8:24 am

Ernie Sano

I’m not a fashion admirer by any stretch, but Coco Channel and her “little black dress” are iconic. Your article did a fantastic job to cover Channel and the people who made her clothes famous such as Audrey Hepburn. You did well covering the history and transitions that were pioneered by her and there was not a dull moment in your writing.

reply

19/11/2017

8:24 am

Amanda Perez

This article just goes to show that you can build an empire from very humble beginnings. Coco Chanel opened so many doors in the fashion industry. I love that she initiated the creation of women’s clothing made from the ideas and preferences of a woman. It is all very liberating. Her brand has withstood the true test of time.

reply

19/11/2017

8:24 am

Dayna Valdez

I love reading of people becoming something after such a sad previous past. I never really knew of how Coco Chanel became so famous or the history behind the brand so it was very interesting to learn about it. Fashion isn’t something I usually find interesting, but to read about how women were able to express themselves more, was something I really did enjoy.

reply

19/11/2017

8:24 am

Jose Figueroa

I always loved watching high fashion and the creativity of what they create. With Chanel being such a world famous brand for decades, I always figured that she came from a well off family that allowed her to put time into building her fashion empire. Seeing as how to changed fashion entirely and allowed for woman clothes to finally be designed by woman when she came from nothing is amazing. Even more so is the fact that on of the most iconic pieces of clothing ever designed, was by accident. A very pleasant read!

reply

10/01/2018

8:24 am

1 4 5 6 7 8 9

Leave a Reply