StMU Research Scholars

Featuring Scholarly Research, Writing, and Media at St. Mary’s University

October 12, 2017

Coco Chanel’s “Little Black Dress”

Growing up, this woman had been abandoned by her father, leaving her and her siblings to become orphans. Although she grew up very poor, she strove to make a name for herself and be somebody important in the world, and she has since become famous for her fragrances, signature handbags, and the modern breakthrough in women’s fashion associated with her, revolutionizing the world of fashion one piece of clothing at a time. She was the French fashion designer Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. Being filled with the “desire for independence and need to be different,” Chanel freed women from tight corsets and introduced them to new comfortable loose clothing.1

During the 1920’s, Chanel had become one of the most powerful designers, creating a variety of fashionable clothing worn by women, and even influencing the “flappers.”2 Prior to her “revolution in fashion,” the fashion industry had been ruled by men, and clothes were made from a male’s viewpoint for how women should dress. But she introduced an entirely different concept of women’s fashion to the world. In the years before 1919, fitted vibrant colored clothing was the signature look, where black or dark clothing were only worn at funerals and at times of mourning. She even began attending many high social functions wearing pants, making something that was never done before a new trend in women’s fashion.3 Her style was one of a kind. She designed her clothing from her own viewpoint, as a woman, wearing what she saw as most comfortable.

Her creations instantaneously became the uniform of the modern women. It all started with the explosion of a gas burner while getting ready for an event in 1926. She found herself troubled trying to get the water temperate enough to wash her face. Wearing a simple white dress, she tried to alter the gas flame when it exploded surprisingly. Her white dress was now fully coated with soot. The explosion resulted in the creation of the legendary “Little Black Dress.”4 The original little black dress was plain and simple. It was a long-sleeved black fitted, but also comfortable creped, dress.5 It was a tragedy that led to the innovation of a lifetime. Chanel had created the perfect dress, suitable for any occasion, elegant or casual. “It defined the essence of modern, liberated women and reflected a change.”6

Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel wearing the famous “Little Black Dress” | Courtesy of Flickr

When the famous actress Audrey Hepburn wore the dress in 1961, it brought more attraction to the style and simplicity of the Little Black Dress. It became more idolized and desired. The fame of the little black dress increased due to its exposure in Hepburn’s iconic movie, Breakfast at Tiffany’s. She portrayed a character named Holly Golightly.7 Chanel’s fashion was frequently displayed among the high social class. She dressed many famous individuals such as Elizabeth Taylor, Marilyn Monroe, Princess Diana, Madonna, and Jackie Kennedy.8

Through the years, the Little Black Dress became knows as the LBD.  It came to be a necessity in every woman’s attire. It could be used for any type of occasion. Generations after generations, the dress has changed drastically. The LBD went from a fitted design to a more fashionable cocktail dress for special events. The LBD has become a trademark, displaying the transformation of fashion and dress since at least the late 1920’s. We are now in the twenty-first century; the little black dress remains a mainstay of the clothing industry and a must in the wardrobe of every woman. Even after four decades after her death, Chanel remains an icon. She played a very important role in the revolution of women’s fashion. Thanks to Chanel’s bold attitude and braveness, she broke the “rules” and transformed fashion.

  1. Encyclopedia of World Biography, 2004, s.v. “Coco Chanel.”
  2. St. James Encyclopedia of Popular Culture, April 2013, s.v. “Chanel, Coco,” by Richard Martin.
  3. Encyclopedia of World Biography, 2004, s.v. “Coco Chanel.”
  4. Isabella Alston and Kathryn Dixon, Coco Chanel (United States: Bellagio Press, 2014), 34.
  5. Isabelle Fiemeyer, “Chanel the Enigma,” France Today Vol.32, No. 1 (2016): 83.
  6. Deborah Felder, The 100 most influential women of all time: a ranking past and present (New Jersey: Citadel, 1996), 175.
  7. Nancy Wingston, “It starts with a little black dress,” Toronto Star (2016).
  8. Isabella Alston and Kathryn Dixon, Coco Chanel (United States: Bellagio Press, 2014), 90.

Tags from the story

Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel

Little Black Dress

Recent Comments

Teresa Valdez

As someone who has personally had to experience a corset, I thank Coco Chanel for allowing women to be able to take deep breaths and to sit comfortably. The article portrays Chanel as a feminist icon and I appreciated that. The topic of this article is very specific and done very well. Despite that the article is brief, it is well researched.

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20/10/2017

8:24 am

Troy Leonard

I have to say you did a great job at writing this article and giving even better at giving the information on the topic. the really great thing I it is for girls that love to dress up and be comfortable all at the same to and feel good about them selves. she really made an impact on the fashion industry and wearing dark colors is now part of everyday styles.

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20/10/2017

8:24 am

Oceane Roux

Thank you for this article! I didn’t know much about Coco Channel beside her name before reading this article, and it was extremely informative. The “little black dress” is such an important clothing for women and fashion in general, and it was interesting to learn where it comes from. The author did a great job; I really enjoyed reading this article!

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20/10/2017

8:24 am

Michelle Falcon

CoCo Chanel is an inspiration, she changed the fashion industry for women for years to come. I loved how this article told the story to us readers. Starting with how she struggled to the legendary women she is today. Her legacy still lives on today with all of her products but even more so in the closet of every women, A.K.A., the little black dress. Over all this was an amazing article that i very much so enjoyed reading.

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21/10/2017

8:24 am

Edith De Loera

What I loved most about “Coco” Chanel’s story is that she founded the brand because of her desire to bring comfort upon women’s fashion. She went through a series of events in her life which led her to become such a determined, hard-working woman who wanted success and a name for herself more than anything. I find it so astonishing how “little black dress” is still a very relevant term today! Enjoyed the good flow of this article and awesome background facts.

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27/10/2017

8:24 am

Benjamin Voy

“Coco Chanel’s “Little Black Dress is a great article that should be considered for “Cultural History” or “People”. This article really gets into the specifics of how Chanel really took off and became such an iconic brand. It is a great article that really captures how this small item really grew into a massive luxurious brand. A truly well written and interesting piece.

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31/10/2017

8:24 am

Erin Vento

Coco Chanel is a true icon!! The “LBD” is an essential for most women and is truly the best balance between comfortable and casual and the modern women’s business attire. I really had no idea that she was orphaned or even that she little black dress had come out of a mistake. Knowing her struggles and sense of individualism really allows for you to appreciate her all the more.

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03/11/2017

8:24 am

Liam Gillooly

I was attracted to this article due, in part, to my love of all thing Audrey Hepburn, but was pleasantly surprised to learn more about Coco Chanel. What little I know of fashion comes from my mother and sister, but I am glad to become more versed in the fine art. I am amazed that someone was able to go from essentially rags to riches in the fashion world, where the creme of the crop is highly, highly exclusive. The fact that the ‘little black dress’ was not intended to achieve critical acclaim, it did, and has become a staple of the American and international wardrobe. Being the descendant of many vocal “flappers,” I am happy to take a glimpse into the world of my grandparents.

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14/11/2017

8:24 am

Michelle Falcon

I had the pleasure of reading this article for the second time and I enjoyed if just as much. Before I had mentioned before of how much of an inspiration and how Chanel’s legend lives on in almost every women’s life or more so in their closets with the “Little Black Dress”. One thing that stuck out to me this time around was how ” Chanel freed woman from tight corsets”. This change that she made in women fashion has truly lived one for years and will continue on. I couldn’t imagine living life in a corset, thankfully I do not have to live my life like that because of her. I thing this was a very well written article and can see why it was nominated for an award.

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14/11/2017

8:24 am

Lauryn Hyde

I loved this article, it tells a story of a strong woman that came from nothing and made a name for herself as well as helped make changes within the women’s beauty standards. With out her self determination the fashion industry may not be the same today. Even today, years after being founded, the Coco Chanel brand is still very popular and worth a lot of money.

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18/11/2017

8:24 am

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